New Releases – Gaslight’s Emporium

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Some of you may recall that a few weeks ago I reviewed several suits produced by new designer Vincente Shepherd of Gaslight’s Emporium. Following the publishing of my views, Mr. Shephard quite graciously commented to inform me of his new location in Port Babbage and thank me for my review.

Since then, he has released a new line of Dinner suits, and I am pleased to look at those here now.

First and foremost I am pleased to see that those strength’s I found in his earlier efforts are still on display in Mr. Shepherd’s more recent work.

He has a fine eye for texture and color, selecting varied shades that allow for interesting variety while still being understated and masculine. In fact, I would like to see him begin to venture more out of solid colors and into the use of discrete patterns in suiting, as he has done with some of his waistcoats sold separately. Indeed, the waistcoat with this suit employs a subtle patterning, which I feel would be interesting as the basis for a full suit, and not simply it’s accents.

In the illustration above I am wearing his Dinner suit in Charcoal and the skillful shadowing along the lines of the jacket is readily apparent. His strong abilities with detailing are still at work in the lapels and pockets, and in the buttons of the waistcoat.

Mr. Shepherd still has a possibly unhealthy attachment to prim elements, but I am pleased to say some of the defect I decried when last I looked at his work are not as damning here. The prim bow tie was quite easily adjusted to suit my throat, possibly because it does not require the illusion of tucking into the waistcoat as his previous ascots did. A definite improvement here, in my opinion.

The skirt of the jacket is still a prim attachment, but is not as radically angled as found in his previous suits, when I felt as if I were prepared to dance the pas d’ deux from Swan Lake in it’s romantic, tulle-like folds. In the Dinner suit, the lower portion of the jacket suits the male form better but still feels a bit bolted on, as if it doesn’t really belong with the outfit but can serve in a pinch. However, the shade matches the upper jacket perfectly, and it is a clear step forward from his previous efforts.

While I am much happier with the Dinner suit then I was Mr. Shepherd’s previous Gentleman‘s line of suits, I feel that he would do well to trust his instincts and push the envelope a bit. I would like to see him take his detailing skills still further, with more ornate and stylized shirt fronts and cuffs. I would like to see him use his texturing skills more liberally, experimenting with different fabrics and patterns. It is always a challenge for a designer to work within the limitations of period clothing, remaining true to the form while bringing their own vision and exciting, interesting choices to the table. I strongly urge him to look at the work of such masters of the craft as Miss hyasynth Tiramisu and Miss Yuriko Muromachi to see how accuracy and innovation can co-exist, and to understand the importance of a clear personal style and vision to a successful menswear collection.

Mr. Shepherd has clearly advanced in the technique of SL fashion design, now he must allow himself to think like a designer…and design.

I am firm in my opinion, despite his prim skirt obsession, that Mr. Shepherd is definitely on the rise as a menswear designer to watch and that he is ready to take a brave step forward with his designs.

I look forward to what he will produce next.

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